From Castel Sant’Angelo to the Chiostro del Bramante, asking the way: a real walk, in seven stops.
Today we take a walk in Roma: from Castel Sant’Angelo to the Chiostro del Bramante (Chiostro del Bramante). The way is short, but it’s complicated: narrow alleys, little squares, bends. To get there you have to ask. And asking the way is one of the most useful things you can learn in a language: you use it every day, and every time you talk to a real person.
This isn’t a made-up trip: it’s a real route that we know well. For each stop you’ll find the Street View image of the spot where you are, with the way to go drawn on top, and a small map showing the direction you’re facing. You can follow it from home, or in Roma, phone in hand.
What’s in this article. The route on the map · how to ask · directions, with drawings · tu or Lei · the answers you really get · the walk in seven stops, with Street View · the full dialogue to print · and at the end, a preview.
The sheet to print — all the dialogues of the walk, with the map. Take it with you, or keep it in front of you on Wednesday:
Chiedere_la_strada_a_Roma_en.pdf
The route
The whole route: seven stops, about 1.7 kilometers (just over a mile).
We start at the entrance of Castel Sant’Angelo. We cross the bridge, reach Rocco’s shop, walk along Via dei Coronari and arrive at our goal, the Chiostro del Bramante. We’ll ask the way of three people, in three different places: a lady in front of the castle, Rocco, and an antiques dealer halfway along Via dei Coronari.
Then, since we’re there, let’s keep going: Piazza Navona, Lo Zozzone for something typically Roman to eat (optional), and finally San Luigi dei Francesi, where the next episode begins. In all, about twenty-five minutes on foot, not counting stops.
How to ask
The four steps: get someone’s attention, ask, check, say thank you.
With someone you don’t know, you start with “Scusi” or “Mi scusi” (excuse me). It’s the polite form, the one with Lei. With a friend you say “Scusa”. If there’s time, say hello first: “Buongiorno” until early afternoon, “Buonasera” after that.
To ask, the most complete phrase is “Sa dov’è…?” (do you know where … is?). But in the street you mostly hear the short form: “Per piazza Navona?” (for Piazza Navona?). Just “per” plus the name of the place, with your voice going up at the end. It’s normal, and it isn’t rude.
The most important step is the third: repeat out loud what you understood. “Allora: a destra e poi dritto. Giusto?” (So: right, and then straight on. Is that right?) If you got it wrong, the person will correct you at once. And if they talk too fast, you can say “Può ripetere più piano?” (could you say that again more slowly?). Nobody takes offense.
Me lo indica sulla mappa?
Could you show me on the map? — while showing the map on your phone
Your phone helps: show the map and ask them to point to the spot. But try with words first. That’s the exercise.
Directions
The movements: straight on, right, left, back, across, all the way to the end.
Watch out for a small but important difference. “Giri a destra” means “turn right”: you change direction. “È sulla destra” means “it’s on the right”: the thing is on the right-hand side of the street while you keep walking straight.
When they tell you “la prima a destra” (the first on the right) or “la seconda a sinistra” (the second on the left), count every street, even the narrowest alleys. In Roma an alley two meters wide is a street like any other.
Where things are: next to, opposite, behind, on the corner, at the end, between, after, before.
In Roma people hardly ever give street names: they give landmarks. The church, the fountain, the bar, the traffic light, “the bridge with the angels”. When you hear “è qui dietro” (it’s just behind here), it means: very close, but you can’t see it from here.
The same directions in two forms: with tu (familiar) and with Lei (polite).
Directions are almost always in the imperative. A stranger will use Lei with you — “vada”, “giri”, “prenda”. A friend, like Rocco, will use tu — “vai”, “gira”, “prendi”. It’s the same information: only the distance between the people changes. Watch out for the trap: “giri” is Lei, “gira” is tu.
The answers you really get
Six answers you’ll really hear, and how to handle them.
In textbooks the answer is always complete: “Go straight for two hundred meters, then turn right.” In the street it’s different. Many people answer with a single stop: “Get to the square and then ask again.” It isn’t laziness: in the center of Roma the streets are so tangled that nobody remembers the whole route. It’s an honest answer.
So the strategy is “one stop at a time”. And a useful trick: instead of the small goal (“the Cloister”), ask for a big landmark everyone knows (“Via dei Coronari”, “Piazza Navona”). Once you’re there, ask again.
One last thing: almost nobody talks in meters. They’ll say “cinque minuti” (five minutes), or “è a due passi” (it’s two steps away), meaning very close. And if someone tells you “non si può sbagliare” (you can’t miss it)… smile, and get ready to ask again.
The walk, stop by stop
Now let’s walk. For each stop you’ll find images of where you are, then the scene (in Italian only: these are the phrases to say and to understand), then an explanation of the new phrases.
Stop 1: Castel Sant’Angelo
You are here: in front of the entrance of Castel Sant’Angelo. In the circle, the map and the direction you’re facing. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
The castle was the tomb of the emperor Adriano, almost two thousand years ago. Later it became a fortress of the popes. In front of it is the bridge with ten marble angels designed by Bernini. It’s the first landmark on our way.
The scene — In front of Castel Sant’Angelo
Yuki: Scusi, signora, posso chiederLe un’informazione?
oppure Mi scusi, sa dov’è il Chiostro del Bramante?
Signora: Certo, mi dica.
Yuki: Cerco il Chiostro del Bramante. È lontano?
Signora: No, a piedi saranno dieci minuti. Però è un po’ complicato.
Signora: Allora… vede il ponte? Quello con le statue degli angeli.
Yuki: Sì, lo vedo.
Signora: Attraversi il ponte. Poi vada sempre dritto, per la strada di fronte.
Signora: In fondo alla strada c’è una piazzetta. Lì chieda di nuovo, perché dopo sono tutti vicoli.
oppure Dall’altra parte del ponte chieda a qualcuno: io lì dietro mi perdo sempre!
Yuki: Allora: attraverso il ponte, vado sempre dritto e in fondo chiedo di nuovo. Giusto?
Signora: Giusto, perfetto!
Yuki: Grazie mille, gentilissima.
Signora: Si figuri. Buona passeggiata!
“Cross the bridge”: the blue line is the way to go. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
At the end of the bridge: “straight on all the way”, into the street opposite. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
“Posso chiederLe un’informazione?” (may I ask you something?) — the politest way to start. “Le” has a capital letter because it’s the courtesy Lei.
“Saranno dieci minuti” — it’s the future tense, but it isn’t about the future: it means “about ten minutes”. In Italian the future is also used for estimates.
“Vede il ponte?” (do you see the bridge?) — before giving the direction, the lady checks that you can see the landmark. Just answer “Sì, lo vedo” (yes, I see it).
“In fondo alla strada” — at the end of the street. And the lady does what many people do: she takes you as far as one stop and tells you to ask again there. Perfect: that’s exactly what we’ll do.
Stop 2: Rocco’s shop
Via del Banco di Santo Spirito: near the end, on the left, is Rocco’s shop. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
Rocco’s shop, at Via del Banco di Santo Spirito 25: the old green sign says “BARBIERE”. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
Rocco and Massimo: men’s hairdressers. Japanese visitors very welcome.
Rocco is a friend of ours. He’s a men’s hairdresser (parrucchiere per uomo) at Via del Banco di Santo Spirito 25. Working with him is Massimo. Both are Japanese-friendly, so feel free to walk in and ask the way. Just say “Mi manda Alain” (Alain sent me).
How to recognize the shop. Above the door is the word “BARBIERE” in green letters. It’s a very old sign, from another era, and well worth a look. barbiere (barber) and parrucchiere per uomo (men’s hairdresser) are synonyms: they name the same trade. “barbiere” is the old word, the one on shop signs and in Rossini’s opera The Barber of Seville (Il barbiere di Siviglia); today people more often say “parrucchiere per uomo”.
Rocco speaks excellent Italian, English and Spanish. But for the exercise, ask for directions in Italian! And a tip on good manners: if he’s cutting a customer’s hair, wait a moment before you speak.
The scene — At Rocco’s
(Near the end of the street, on the left, an old green sign: “BARBIERE”. It’s Rocco’s shop. Yuki goes in.)
Yuki: Buongiorno! Scusi, c’è Rocco?
Rocco: Sono io. Buongiorno, dica!
Yuki: Mi manda Alain.
Rocco: Ah, Alain! Ciao! Dammi del tu. Dimmi tutto.
Yuki: Devo andare al Chiostro del Bramante. Come ci arrivo?
Rocco: Facile. Esci e torna un po’ indietro, verso il castello.
Rocco: Prendi la prima a destra: è un vicolo stretto, Vicolo del Curato. All’angolo c’è un ristorante.
Yuki: La prima a destra, dove c’è il ristorante.
Rocco: Esatto. Alla fine del vicolo sei in Via dei Coronari, la via degli antiquari. Vai sempre dritto, cinque minuti.
Rocco: A metà strada chiedi di nuovo: poi c’è da girare, e a parole non è facile.
Yuki: Scusa, puoi ripetere più piano?
Rocco: Certo. Prima a destra. Poi sempre dritto. A metà strada chiedi. Va bene?
Yuki: Va benissimo. Grazie, Rocco!
Rocco: Figurati. Salutami Alain!
If Rocco isn’t there
Massimo: Rocco oggi non c’è. Sono Massimo, lavoro con lui. Dimmi pure!
Yuki: Mi manda Alain. Cerco il Chiostro del Bramante.
Massimo: Allora: torna indietro, prima a destra, poi Via dei Coronari sempre dritto. A metà strada chiedi di nuovo.
If the shop is closed — ask a passerby
Yuki: Mi scusi, sa dov’è Via dei Coronari?
Passante: È qui dietro. Torni indietro di cinquanta metri e prenda il vicolo a destra. Alla fine del vicolo è Via dei Coronari.
oppure Mi dispiace, non sono di qui.
Yuki: Grazie mille!
oppure Grazie lo stesso!
From here on, the way is the same again
“Go back a bit and take the first on the right”: the alley with the restaurant on the corner. In the background you can see the castle. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
“Mi manda Alain” — literally “Alain sends me”. In Italia it’s the normal way to introduce yourself to someone through a mutual friend. It opens many doors, not just Rocco’s.
“Ciao! Dammi del tu.” — as soon as he hears a friend’s name, Rocco switches from “Buongiorno” to “Ciao”: the greeting between people who know each other. “Dammi del tu” means “let’s talk with tu, not with Lei”. From that moment you use tu too: “Scusa, puoi ripetere?” (sorry, can you say that again?). And “Dimmi tutto” is the warm Roman way of saying “tell me”.
“Torna un po’ indietro” — go back a little the way you came, toward the castle. Then the first on the right. Your direction has changed, so “right” has changed too: look at the arrow in the image.
“Salutami Alain!” — “say hi to Alain for me”. Every Italian says it at the end of a conversation with a friend of a friend.
If the shop is closed, notice what Yuki asks the passerby: not “the Chiostro del Bramante” but “Via dei Coronari”. Everyone knows a famous street; a small cloister, not so much. And if the passerby isn’t from Roma, say “Grazie lo stesso!” (thanks anyway) and ask the next person.
Stop 3: Via dei Coronari
Via dei Coronari: from here, straight on all the way. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
Halfway along: the Via dei Coronari street sign on the wall to the right. Here you ask again. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
The name comes from the “coronari”, who sold rosaries (corona) to pilgrims on their way to San Pietro. Today it’s the street of antiques dealers: old furniture, paintings, lamps. In Roma street names are on marble plaques on the walls: look up, at the corners.
The scene — Halfway along Via dei Coronari
(An antiques dealer is standing in the doorway of his shop.)
Yuki: Buongiorno. Scusi, per il Chiostro del Bramante sono sulla strada giusta?
Antiquario: Sì, sì. Vada ancora dritto, duecento metri.
Antiquario: Poi, sulla destra, c’è una stradina stretta: si chiama Arco della Pace. La prenda.
Antiquario: Il Chiostro è lì, sulla sinistra, attaccato alla chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace.
Yuki: Sulla destra, Arco della Pace. E se non la vedo?
Antiquario: Se Via dei Coronari finisce, è andata troppo avanti: torni un po’ indietro.
oppure Chieda di Santa Maria della Pace: la conoscono tutti.
Yuki: Perfetto. Grazie mille!
Antiquario: Prego. E se ha tempo, dia un’occhiata alle vetrine!
Santa Maria della Pace: if you get lost, ask for the church. The Cloister is right next to it. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
“Sono sulla strada giusta?” (am I on the right way?) — one of the most useful phrases for travelers: you don’t ask for the whole route, only for a confirmation. Easy answer: yes or no.
“Sulla destra c’è una stradina” — remember: “sulla destra” is the side of the street. Keep walking and look to the right. “stradina” is a small street: the ending “-ina” makes things small.
“Se Via dei Coronari finisce, è andata troppo avanti” (if Via dei Coronari ends, you’ve gone too far) — the antiques dealer even gives you the sign that you’ve made a mistake. It’s very useful to know: how do I tell that I’ve gone wrong?
Stop 4: the Chiostro del Bramante
“The little street on the right”: the entrance to Arco della Pace. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
Inside Arco della Pace: the Cloister is on the left. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
The Chiostro del Bramante: two stories of arches and columns around the courtyard. — photo by Kent Wang, CC BY-SA
The Cloister is Donato Bramante’s first work in Roma, built between 1500 and 1504; a few years later Bramante would design the new basilica of San Pietro. Today it hosts exhibitions and has a café on the second floor. Next door is the church of Santa Maria della Pace, with the Sibyls painted by Raffaello.
The scene — At the Chiostro del Bramante
Yuki: Buongiorno. È questo il Chiostro del Bramante?
Addetta: Sì, è qui. Benvenuta!
(After the visit.)
Yuki: Scusi, per piazza Navona?
Addetta: È a due passi. Esca, vada verso la chiesa e prenda il vicolo a sinistra. Dopo cento metri è in piazza Navona.
Yuki: A due passi… cioè?
Addetta: Due minuti a piedi. Non si può sbagliare!
“È a due passi” — “it’s two steps away”, meaning very close. Nobody really counts the steps.
“Non si può sbagliare!” (you can’t miss it!) — the most optimistic phrase in Roma. Here, luckily, it’s true: the alley leads straight into Piazza Navona.
Stop 5: Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona from above: its long shape is that of the ancient stadium. — photo by giopuo, CC BY-NC-SA
After the rain: Sant’Agnese in Agone reflected in the puddles of the square.
The square is shaped like a stadium because it was one: the stadium of Domiziano, from the first century. In the middle is Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi; facing it, Borromini’s church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, with its dome. The dome is the landmark for the next scene.
The scene — In Piazza Navona
(A woman is crossing the square. Yuki stops her.)
Yuki: Scusi, conosce lo Zozzone? È un posto dove fanno la pizza ripiena.
Passante: Lo Zozzone? Certo, è qui dietro!
oppure Mi dispiace, non lo conosco. Chieda al vigile, è lì.
Passante: Vede la chiesa con la cupola? Passi a destra della chiesa, in quella stradina.
Passante: Vada dritto fino in fondo, poi giri a sinistra: Via del Teatro Pace. C’è sempre gente fuori.
Yuki: A destra della chiesa, fino in fondo, poi a sinistra.
Passante: Esatto. E poi mi dica se era buona!
If you’d rather have gelato — Giolitti
Yuki: Scusi, per Giolitti? La gelateria.
Passante: Esca dalla piazza da quella parte e vada sempre dritto: passa davanti a San Luigi dei Francesi e arriva al Pantheon. Lì chieda di nuovo.
Yuki: Sempre dritto fino al Pantheon, e lì chiedo. Grazie!
Whom to ask, in a famous square. Ask a passerby or, if there are any, the police: the vigile (the city police), a police officer (poliziotto), a carabiniere. That’s part of why they’re there, and they’re happy to help. Better not to ask people who work in the square, like painters or street sellers: sometimes they immediately try to sell you a painting, or to draw your portrait even if you don’t want one. If that happens, all it takes is a smile and “No, grazie” (no, thank you), and you move on.
“Vede la chiesa con la cupola? Passi a destra della chiesa” — again a landmark, and a position relative to it. “To the right of the church” means: on the right-hand side as you face the church.
“Fino in fondo, poi a sinistra” — go to the end of the little street; there it ends and you have to choose: left.
Stop 6: a break — Lo Zozzone or Giolitti
Via del Teatro Pace 32: Lo Zozzone. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
A break to eat something typically Roman: filled pizza bianca, with whatever you choose at the counter inside, usually seven or eight euros. We don’t know the people at Lo Zozzone personally and have no arrangement with them. We wrote about the place in the article “Bread and panini”. It isn’t an essential stop: not everyone knows it, and if you can’t find it, it doesn’t matter. It’s a detour for a nice walk and for asking the way in Italian one more time.
Or a gelato at Giolitti, one of the oldest and most famous gelaterie in Roma, a stone’s throw from the Pantheon. As in many bars (we saw it in the bar episode), you pay first at the register and take the receipt to the counter. At the register just say the size and the price: “un cono da cinque euro” (a five-euro cone) or “una coppetta da cinque euro” (a five-euro cup), or a smaller one if you want less. At the counter you choose the flavors. Our advice: always ask for whipped cream (panna). We’ll talk about gelato properly in an episode all of its own.
Giolitti, at Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40: the sign, the little tables, and inside the gelato counter. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
The scene — A break — Lo Zozzone or Giolitti
First way — Lo Zozzone
(Yuki orders a filled pizza, choosing at the counter. Then, pizza in hand:)
Yuki: Senta, un’ultima cosa: per San Luigi dei Francesi?
Banco: Torni in piazza Navona e la attraversi tutta. Dall’altra parte c’è una stradina: la prenda.
Banco: Arriva su una strada grande. Davanti c’è il Senato, con i carabinieri.
Banco: Attraversi e prenda la strada a sinistra del Senato. La chiesa è lì, in fondo.
Yuki: Torno in piazza, la attraverso tutta, poi la strada a sinistra del Senato. Giusto?
Banco: Giusto. Cinque minuti.
Second way — Giolitti
(At the Pantheon, Yuki asks a vigile, a city police officer.)
Yuki: Scusi, per Giolitti?
Vigile: Prenda quella strada, Via della Maddalena, sempre dritto. In fondo giri a destra: è lì.
(At Giolitti you pay first at the register, then go to the counter with the receipt.)
Yuki: Un cono da cinque euro, per favore.
oppure Una coppetta da cinque euro.
Yuki: Pistacchio e cioccolato. Con la panna, grazie!
Yuki: Senta, per San Luigi dei Francesi?
Banco: Torni al Pantheon e prenda Via Giustiniani, a destra. La chiesa è in fondo.
“Senta, un’ultima cosa” (excuse me, one last thing) — “senta” (from the verb sentire) is used to get the attention of someone who has just served you. It’s the Lei form; with a friend you say “senti”.
“La attraversi tutta” — cross the square from one end to the other. Piazza Navona is long: on the far side there’s the exit toward the Senate.
Stop 7: San Luigi dei Francesi
Palazzo Madama, home of the Senate: the street to take is to the left of the building. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
The scene — In front of the Senate
Yuki: Mi scusi, San Luigi dei Francesi è di qua?
Carabiniere: Sì. Prenda questa strada, Via del Salvatore. In fondo giri a sinistra: è la chiesa con la facciata bianca.
Yuki: Grazie, molto gentile.
Carabiniere: Prego. Buona visita.
Via del Salvatore: the wall on the left is already the church. At the end, turn left. — image: Street View © Google, route drawn by us
The façade of San Luigi dei Francesi, on its little square. — photo by Piotrus, CC BY-SA 3.0
“È di qua?” (is it this way?) — “is it in this direction?”. Two words to ask for a confirmation, pointing down the street with your hand. There are always carabinieri (military police) in front of the Senate: you can ask them too, using Lei.
We’ve arrived. San Luigi dei Francesi is the church of the French community in Roma, and admission is free. (If you’re coming from Giolitti, you enter the little square from Via Giustiniani and have the façade in front of you.) Go in and walk to the last chapel on the left.
Inside San Luigi dei Francesi: gold, marble and stucco. — photo by danxoneil, CC BY
The cappella Contarelli: Caravaggio’s “San Matteo e l’angelo”. — photo by Context Travel, CC BY-NC-SA
Next episode: Caravaggio. — photo by profzucker, CC BY-NC-SA
In the cappella Contarelli there are three paintings by Caravaggio, painted between 1599 and 1602: “Vocazione di san Matteo”, “San Matteo e l’angelo” and “Martirio di san Matteo”. The light coming through the window in the Vocazione is one of the most famous in the history of painting.
And this is where the next episode begins: we’ll talk about Caravaggio, his life in Roma, and these canvases.
Walk it with Street View
For those who want to really walk it, in 360 degrees: each link opens Google Street View at exactly the spot and in exactly the direction of the images above. From there you can move around freely, as if you were there.
1 · Castel Sant’Angelo, l’ingresso — Street View · the entrance of Castel Sant’Angelo
1 · Ponte Sant’Angelo — Street View · Ponte Sant’Angelo (the bridge)
1 · Dopo il ponte — Street View · just across the bridge
2 · Via del Banco di Santo Spirito — Street View
2 · Il negozio di Rocco (insegna BARBIERE) — Street View · Rocco’s shop (the “BARBIERE” sign)
2 · Verso Vicolo del Curato — Street View · toward Vicolo del Curato
3 · Via dei Coronari — Street View
3 · A metà di Via dei Coronari — Street View · halfway along Via dei Coronari
4 · L’imbocco di Arco della Pace — Street View · the entrance to Arco della Pace
4 · Il Chiostro del Bramante — Street View
4 · Santa Maria della Pace — Street View
6 · Via del Teatro Pace 32 — Street View
6 · Giolitti (la sosta alternativa) — Street View · Giolitti (the alternative break)
7 · Il Senato — Street View · the Senate
7 · Via del Salvatore — Street View
Let’s practice it together on Wednesday
Every Wednesday at 9 pm Japan time (lunchtime in Italia) we open a free online room to talk in Italian — you’re welcome to just listen. Let’s act out the scenes of this walk together, with the sheet in front of us. To join: sign up for free, and once you’re logged in, tap “Talk Room” in the menu. And after that, we go on into San Luigi dei Francesi with Caravaggio. Start with part 1 of “Caravaggio in comics”.
About the images. The street photos are from Google Street View (© Google, panoramas from 2014 to 2024; faces and license plates blurred by Google), with the route drawn on top by us. The maps are made by us from OpenStreetMap data (ODbL). Photographs: neilalderney123 (CC BY-NC), Kent Wang (CC BY-SA), giopuo (CC BY-NC-SA), Piotrus (CC BY-SA 3.0), danxoneil (CC BY), Context Travel (CC BY-NC-SA), profzucker (CC BY-NC-SA), used under their respective licenses. Thank you all.
