There is a very close relationship between the position of the ancient Imperial Palace (平安宮, Heian-kyū), the urban layout of Kyoto and certain religious precepts.
In particular, in connection with the presence of the Four Sacred Beasts: mythological creatures of immense power, protectors of the city.
The Imperial Palace of Kyoto was finally destroyed in 1227 and never rebuilt. The south-eastern corner of the imperial complex stood in the middle of today’s Nijō Castle. But even though the palace is gone, the Four Fantastic Creatures have never stopped living in Kyoto.
On today’s Senbon Street, a grey stone with an inscription marks the spot where the Suzakumon stood: the entrance gate to the Imperial Palace. From there started the Suzaku Ōji (the Suzaku avenue), which once ran from the Imperial Palace all the way to Lake Ogura, passing through the entrance gate to the city: the Rajōmon.
Lake Ogura was drained and turned into farmland, work that was completed in 1941. The lake covered 8 square kilometres, with a circumference of 16 km and an average depth of 90 cm. Inside the Kyoto Racecourse a small part of the original lake survives, and according to myth the mighty Suzaku lives there: the red bird that protects the South and rules over summer.
But other places in Kyoto are just as important. Like the Kamo River, where Seiryū winds his way: the blue dragon that protects the East and rules over spring.
Or the San’indō road, where you might catch sight of Byakko: the white tiger that protects the West and rules over autumn.
And finally Genbu, the black tortoise with a snake for a tail, which protects the North, rules over winter and lives in some mysterious hollow on Funaokayama hill.
In short, these Sacred Beasts protected what was once the imperial palace, and still today they keep the four cardinal points of Kyoto safe from evil.
But there is another direction: north-east, the ill-omened direction, the place from which, according to legend, the destruction of the city could come: the mysterious, invisible Kimon (literally: the demon gate).
“At night, in Kyoto, we turn off all the lights so the oni can’t find us.”
That is how some elderly people warn about the nearness of the Kimon, the gate of the oni. They say it is slightly oval. But no one has ever survived to tell the tale. In any case, luckily, the city is protected by the magic of the Four Sacred Beasts, and no one, not even the oni, will ever break that spell.
Much of the information in this post comes from the book Kyoto Segreta (Secret Kyoto) by Sasori, a very good Italian writer who lives in Kyoto. Sadly, I don’t know him personally. But it seemed right to show him a little appreciation and gratitude.
